Daytona 675 Race Track Transformation Part 2

I ran out of time last weekend to complete the removal of some additional road items that aren’t necessary for the track and detailed those changes in a previous post. This includes the rear footrests and the whole number plate assembly.

IMG_20121219_144904_CThe footrests are simple to remove, although you are left with two ugly looking mounting points on the subframe. However I’m too tight to pay for a small bracket to cover the lugs, so they’ll just have to remain visible.

Removing the tail light assembly involves taking off the seat, the tail piece and the carbon fibre heatshield that sits between the exhaust and the subframe. Once that is all off you can get access to the two bolts each side the hold the tail assembly in place. The whole assembly can be removed as one once you disconnect the single block connector under the tail piece.

IMG_20121219_144915_CThe tail light assembly is really ugly, and the looks and lines of the bike are hugely improved once it is removed. You especially notice the slimness of the bike when looking at it from the rear. Obviously a better looking bike isn’t going to help you go any faster, but there’s no harm in hoping!

While removing the above items, I also disabled the alarm system. This is because the bike is going to be stored for 4 weeks before it heads out to Spain by lorry for a 3 day track event.

I didn’t want the alarm draining the battery unnecessarily without any means to recharge it abroad.

IMG_20121219_144759_CI also fitted the final crash protection item that I purchased a few weeks ago.

This is a bracket that fits over the air scoop and is designed to protect the headstock in the event of a crash. Without it, there is a chance that a bad crash can tear the stop lock and damage the frame – this would be very expensive to sort out.

The bracket limits the amount of travel of the yokes which is why it isn’t a good idea to fit on a road bike. But for a track bike where you don’t need a lot of steering lock, it’s absolutely fine. It was easy to fit even with the fairing in place, and took less than 10 minutes to do so. It would have been quicker if we’d managed to find some longer bolts to replace the existing ones more quickly.

That’s it! The bike is now ready for the 2013 track season.

Update for 2014: You can read about my 675 gearing changes for better drive on track

Daytona 675 Race Track Transformation Part 1

IMG_20121215_142026_CThe biggest problem with a standard Daytona 675 used on track is that even a minor spill (crash) could leave you with a repair bill anywhere from a few hundred to one or two thousand pounds (or dollars) depending on how unlucky you are.

One of the main contributory factors to that bill is the Daytona’s rather beautiful fairing. It comprises three main panels; the top half with the screen, and two lower panels; one on each side. In order therefore to reduce accident damage costs, it therefore makes sense to replace this fairing by a cheaper item. But by what?

Some riders buy used original Triumph fairings to act as a sacrificial set replacing their existing ones. Since a fairing swap takes less than an hour, this is a good solution for a Daytona that is used mainly on the road with the occasional track day. It’s easily possible to swap fairings the night before a track day in less than an hour and then to replace your original fairings afterwards.

Since my Daytona is likely to see more track time than road use, I decided to replace the entire fairing with a race item instead. T3 Racing (in the UK) sell a fairing set comprising a single upper fairing, a screen and single lower belly pan for around £340 (US $545). The fairings are available in three colours; white, red and black. Unlike a typical race fairing that you need to paint, these fairings are a solid colour which means that if scratched, all you need to is polish the scratch out. Nice!

Removing the standard fairing is relatively simple. Just follow these steps:

  1. Remove the left and right infill panels in the upper fairing
  2. Remove the upper LHS Allen screw that retains the voltage regulator
  3. Loosen all the lower fairing retaining screws on both sides
  4. Split the two fairing lowers where they meet at the bottom by removing the four plastic retaining screws
  5. Remove either side lower fairing completely, and then do the same for the upper fairing
  6. Remove the mirrors, and undo the two shiny screws on either side of the headlamp unit
  7. Pull the whole upper fairing forward and off the bike disconnecting the light block connectors as you do so
  8. Bag up the screws and fastners; preferably using one bag for the left hand side and another for the right – it will simplify reassembling the fairing later

IMG_20121215_124951_CThe first thing that you’ll notice when you remove the top fairing and headlamp assembly is how heavy it is. I estimate that removing that one item alone probably shaves around 3kgs (7lbs) from the bike.

You’ll probably also notice that the wiring loom hangs down on both sides of the bike too. Don’t worry though as that all gets tidied away when you fit the race fairing.

IMG_20121215_125012_CThe regulator (hanging down) on the right hand side of the bike is fairly heavy and not something that you want swinging around inside the race fairing. Unlike the standard fairing there isn’t provision for fixing it to the race fairing.

IMG_20121215_140132_CTo overcome this, T3 can supply a small bracket to support the regulator. This bracket fixes to the right hand side of the front air intake scoop. Once fitted you can attach the regulator to it so that the regulator sits centrally beneath the air scoop fully fixed and out of harms way.

The first thing you notice when you pick up the T3 race fairing is how light it is. And while it comes pre-drilled and trimmed, I found that some of the edges required filing down for a perfect fit on the bike. This involves offering up the fairing on the bike, attaching the fixing screws and seeing if any parts of the fairing are likely to chafe on the bike. But before you do any of that…

IMG_20121215_141929_CIt is simpler to attach the screen to the upper fairing before you even attempt attaching the fairing to the bike. I used for black platic number plate fixing screws fixed in the top and bottom screen holes to initially attach the screen.

Although I had bought a screen with the fairing, Matt (the master mechanic at Oval Motorcycle Centre) gave/lent me a clear double bubble screen from a damaged 675 race fairing. The (second hand) screen I had bought from T3 was too badly damaged to be used, and will be going back.

With the screen attached, the upper fairing is pushed onto the bike from the front, carefully lining up the mounting holes. There are two fixing points each side; one through the screen to the existing fairing frame, and the other near the cam cover.

Once the upper fairing is fixed (but without tightening the screws too much), the lower fairing is added. This attaches to the upper fairing using two Dsuz fasteners which seem to be nice quality items. The belly pan also has two rear mounting points that match the ones on the standard fairing.

IMG_20121215_142037_CWith the fairing fixed in place, look for any edges that are going to chafe and mark them with a marker pen. Remove the fairing and use a Dremmel to grind away at the edge. This process took 2-3 goes to get right but wasn’t onerous because the entire race fairing can be removed in less than 5 minutes even working on your own.

While you could in theory reuse the fasteners from the original fairing to fix the race fairing in place, Matt suggested using new screws with rubber grommets containing a metal spacer. If you do the same you’ll need four of these; two each side. The pre-drilled holes were too small for the new rubber grommets, so they had to be enlarged. Once this was done, the fairing was fitted and all the screws tightened for the final time.

IMG_20121215_142008_CWhile the wiring loom fits into shelves built into the upper fairing on both sides, it’s still a good idea to cable tie the wires into place to stop them potentially fouling the controls. I will probably bag the fuses and other items on the left hand side of the bike in the fairing before covering the whole lot with insulating tape.

IMG_20121215_141955_CThe T3 fairing is made in the UK by Skidmarx and seems to be a high quality item. It doesn’t look significantly different from the standard fairing and has a nice glossy polished finished to it. The black one I purchased is a perfect colour match to the rest of the Daytona and with the exception of the missing lights, looks as though it could even be an OEM item!


A big thanks for Matt at Oval Motorcycle Centre who gave up nearly three hours of his time helping me get a perfect fairing fit. For those of you have haven’t heard of Oval, go and visit, it will be an enlightening and rewarding experience.

I’ve now added another post about the next stage in the transformation.